I think one of the biggest misconceptions is that volunteers never think about quitting or that those who think about quitting are quitters or ‘not cut out for Peace Corps’. And much like how nobody can watch a full episode of Extreme Home Make Over without crying, a volunteer never goes through service without thinking about quitting.
You think how easy it could be to just call up HQ, pack up, and have the plane ticket ready to go home. You miss your family, your friends, the life you had beforehand. You think everything would just be easier. You think about how in the States you could just roll out and go to the drive through to get something that wasn’t rice, or that in the States it wouldn’t take so many loopholes and set backs. You think about how much easier it was back home and how much easier life would be if you were there right now.
And, there you speak the language. You get the jokes, even if they’re not funny. TV makes sense. People talk like you, share the same interests. No one asks you if you’ve adjusted or if you like the girls. You can have a beer without passing a small glass around in the circle. You just think it would be easier if….
But then you remember what brought you here. You remember that while things were great at home, something brought you to this foreign land. Something drove you to agree to live two years, and even though you didn’t fully understand what you were getting into (nobody does), the fire couldn’t be put out. You remember you came to learn, to share, to help. You remember all the good relationships you have with the people in your site, and even though they’re not like the relationship with your friends in the States, they’re unique. You remember how you’re home stay family calls you hijo, or that they know your favorite Peru dish.
Then you think that it might be worse if you left. Your project is finally getting off the ground, and you’d let those families down (even if it was fewer than you were expecting). You think that some people here would be upset if you suddenly left. You think that you’d like to see your homestay sister receive her high school promocion. You think about the elementary school kids that pass you every day can now differentiate between Good Morning and Good Afternoon, and how proud they get about it. You think that you’d just be starting from scratch in the States anyways. You start to think leaving here is more difficult than you thought.
And these thoughts come and go. A good day can be ruined by a meeting that no one shows up to, just like a bad day is made better just because someone stops you in the street and asks your advice for something other than learning English. A volunteer’s life is not easy by any means; not only is there stress from the Goal 1 section of Peace Corps (the technical and development goal of Peace Corps), but also emotionally. And this never really pops up on the pamphlets and is a blip on the radar on the application. One or two questions about handling multi-cultural experiences (that I think we’re all hardwired to answer the correct way without thinking) but a page of information about your technical background or lack thereof. But if you’re a current or future volunteer, know that you’re not alone…everyone’s thought about giving it up and going home. Everyone’s thought that it would, in fact, be easier in the States and if they just left Peace Corps, but think about what if you actually did leave….would you really be better off?
Kids Programming in Peru
So after reading a random New York Times Business article about Nickelodeon and Nick Jr’s marketing strategies and recovery, and it got me a-thinking. That stuff is actually pretty popular here in Perú. By that stuff, I mean kids and tween programming.
The Jonas Brothers just came to Lima a week or so back. Kids know Hannah Montana that other girl with the Spanish name,, and I see programs like “Lazy Town” on TV all the time. My homestay sister hums songs from High School Musical, and 20 year old men tell me that the Jonas Brothers are an awesome band. The Disney channel really infiltrated my small town. Regular Peruvian TV is filled with telenovelas, movies, and random variety shows. Nothing is really aimed at kids nor are many of the TV personalities in that age group. But not on the Disney channel.
Every program (from Hannah Montana, Witches of Waverly Place, and a whole library of Pixar movies) are dubbed over and feature age identifiable characters for youth, which amounts to 40% of the population of my town. Most families have a TV and cable (or their neighbors), so its easily accessible. The programs use a lot of situational and goofy humor, which always translates well into any culture. And while the majority of the actors and actresses are white, that’s really not too different from the majority of news presenters and television personalities in Perú and the whole of Spanish-speaking North and South American regions.
The Jonas Brothers just came to Lima a week or so back. Kids know Hannah Montana that other girl with the Spanish name,, and I see programs like “Lazy Town” on TV all the time. My homestay sister hums songs from High School Musical, and 20 year old men tell me that the Jonas Brothers are an awesome band. The Disney channel really infiltrated my small town. Regular Peruvian TV is filled with telenovelas, movies, and random variety shows. Nothing is really aimed at kids nor are many of the TV personalities in that age group. But not on the Disney channel.
Every program (from Hannah Montana, Witches of Waverly Place, and a whole library of Pixar movies) are dubbed over and feature age identifiable characters for youth, which amounts to 40% of the population of my town. Most families have a TV and cable (or their neighbors), so its easily accessible. The programs use a lot of situational and goofy humor, which always translates well into any culture. And while the majority of the actors and actresses are white, that’s really not too different from the majority of news presenters and television personalities in Perú and the whole of Spanish-speaking North and South American regions.
A Day in the Life
So what’s my days been like? Busy. No sitting in hammocks, having monkeys serving me mixed drinks in coconut shells like I thought the Peace Corps was (or should be). Instead, I’m actually putting in hours on all end. A typical day looks something like this
545am: Wake up as I hear the bread being delivered and hear the sales going on. Fall back to sleep
7am: Alarms start going off, enjoy breakfast of bread and coffee (three cups), watch a little TV. The fam has learned that Mateo does not like to talk before he is done with his coffee
8am: Out the door to touch base with the school/health post/municipality about what’s going on and what I need them to do (copies, arrange a meeting, etc)
9am: At the secondary school, teaching boxing to about 20 kids who will be participating in exhibition matches for the school’s anniversary celebration
11am: Leave the school, go follow up with whoever I was visiting in the morning to make sure it’s in motion. Prepare for afternoon
12:30/1pm: Lunch, possibly with family if I’m not going to my annexes
1:30pm: Wait for bus to get go out to my annexes (the farthest is 25 miles away, the closest is 20 miles away)
2:30ish: Arrive in annexes, talk with health promoters. Either house visits our set up for a charla
3pm: Visiting houses and talking with families, or in an education session
5pm: Catch the bus back to site
5:30pm: Arrive at site, go home and relax
7pm: Dinner
7:30pm: Prep for the morning or meeting with a local contractor about my bathroom design
9:30pm/10pm: Lights out, hasta mañana
The life of a Peace Corps volunteer is an odd one. Early in the week, I had a lady in one of my farming annexes spread rumors I work for local politicians and that people shouldn't trust me. And then later in the same week, I'm standing with two other volunteers and 50,000 Peruvians at a Bon Jovi concert in Lima.
After a few logistical mishaps and trying to figure out how to get into our section, we arrived inside the stadium just as the Bon Jovi entrance music was beginning. Our tickets were in the semi-cheap section (the most expensive section cost one month's living allowance), and pretty far away, but we could still see the stage, screens, and Mr. Jon Bon Jovi and Dr. Richie Sambora.
And impressively enough, contrary to how Latin America typically works (and rock and roll shows), it started right on time...the show was listed at 9pm on the ticket, and sure enough Bon Jovi was on stage at 9:00pm (the opening act started at 8). Mr. Bon Jovi and crew rocked on for over two hours, including a few newer songs bit mostly the classics. The best part was sharing Jovi chanting moments with about 50,000 Peruvians.
Let it be known that Peruvians love Bon Jovi.
After a few logistical mishaps and trying to figure out how to get into our section, we arrived inside the stadium just as the Bon Jovi entrance music was beginning. Our tickets were in the semi-cheap section (the most expensive section cost one month's living allowance), and pretty far away, but we could still see the stage, screens, and Mr. Jon Bon Jovi and Dr. Richie Sambora.
And impressively enough, contrary to how Latin America typically works (and rock and roll shows), it started right on time...the show was listed at 9pm on the ticket, and sure enough Bon Jovi was on stage at 9:00pm (the opening act started at 8). Mr. Bon Jovi and crew rocked on for over two hours, including a few newer songs bit mostly the classics. The best part was sharing Jovi chanting moments with about 50,000 Peruvians.
Let it be known that Peruvians love Bon Jovi.
‘Posh Corps or Peace Corps’: A response to that NPR article
It’s true, there’s not denying it. Peace Corps and the experience of Peace Corps volunteers is in some ways markedly different than in the early stages of Peace Corps during the 1960s-1990s. No longer are volunteers necessarily roughing it in mud huts, without light for two years. Nor are volunteers isolated and completely out of touch with the world around them. And yes, Skype, video chatting and e-mail are pretty common means of communication. Does that mean Peace Corps is any less difficult?
First, let’s talk about technology. With developing countries, it’s often that technological development ‘skips’ a stage or two. With developed countries to pour in the R&D, developing countries can adapt to the technology that may or may not directly benefit them. For example, in many parts of the world it’s common that people don’t have landlines, but carry cell phones. Kids in my town have never seen an Apple II, but frequently use MSN Messenger and play Grand Theft Auto on internet connected computers. Technology has changed things not only for Peace Corps volunteers living in remote rural communities, but also for the world at large. And it is actually more common to communicate electronically between cell phones, chat, and text rather than Snail Mail service. Internet costs S/1 (35 cents) an hour, and volunteers often pre-type e-mails home whereas mailing a letter to the States costs, aprox S/7 or $2.50, which is costly when you make $300/month.
Beyond that, I can only really speak for PC/Peru. Part of your living conditions depends on your program and it’s objectives, as well as safety and security. Programs might focus on certain areas, sectors or populations, which may make your site a big city or a small farming annex.
Even more with security, Peace Corps Peru has requirements where volunteers can and can’t live. It’s required that volunteers live with host families during their service, and most will actually live in the house and be part of the family. For that, they need to find a family with an extra room as well as in a safe area, with certain physical aspects of the house (barred windows, solid doors) and most often these families tend to be more well-off members of the community and thus the volunteers tend to live in the better parts of the town. And I don’t think any member of the community really judges that the gringo lives in the nicer part…why would they? The other members of the community would probably like to live their too if they had the choice.
And with the increase of communication, comes the increase in responsibility. There’s more structure and a certain pressure from each program to achieve a number of ‘changed outcomes’ each couple of months. We have weekly interaction with someone from the administration, whether it’s the doctor, regional coordinator or the program director. Most Peace Corps business is conducted through e-mail unless it’s been established that the volunteer DOESN’T have a reliable connection every one-two weeks. Many of the e-mails require follow-up in some form or another, which is time consuming and slightly stressful for the volunteer especially when you have over 100 messages between Peace Corps, friends, families, and offers to increase your member size with just one tiny pill.
As well, volunteers aren’t free to roam about their country and are required to be in their site. Sounds a bit obvious, but a week of disappearing to the beach or for a multi-day hike without previous authorization just doesn’t exist. Volunteers are granted a certain number of vacation days, and have to request in advance to use them. Furthermore, volunteers are required to report to HQ when they spend time out of their site, or pretty much when we don’t sleep in our own beds. Illegal vacations, or taking time out of site without proper reporting, are grounds for disciplinary actions and even early termination. Given all this, we often question whether or not volunteer is our true job title, given all the formalities and requirements imposed.
I’m not complaining about the requirements, as they all have their base and reason. However, Peace Corps isn’t the two year free-ride foreign vacation courtesy of the US government some make it out to be. With all the requirements, goals, and objectives it is an actual job, and the title of volunteer can be misleading. But as the pamphlets and web banners say, Peace Corps is the toughest job you’ll ever love.
First, let’s talk about technology. With developing countries, it’s often that technological development ‘skips’ a stage or two. With developed countries to pour in the R&D, developing countries can adapt to the technology that may or may not directly benefit them. For example, in many parts of the world it’s common that people don’t have landlines, but carry cell phones. Kids in my town have never seen an Apple II, but frequently use MSN Messenger and play Grand Theft Auto on internet connected computers. Technology has changed things not only for Peace Corps volunteers living in remote rural communities, but also for the world at large. And it is actually more common to communicate electronically between cell phones, chat, and text rather than Snail Mail service. Internet costs S/1 (35 cents) an hour, and volunteers often pre-type e-mails home whereas mailing a letter to the States costs, aprox S/7 or $2.50, which is costly when you make $300/month.
Beyond that, I can only really speak for PC/Peru. Part of your living conditions depends on your program and it’s objectives, as well as safety and security. Programs might focus on certain areas, sectors or populations, which may make your site a big city or a small farming annex.
Even more with security, Peace Corps Peru has requirements where volunteers can and can’t live. It’s required that volunteers live with host families during their service, and most will actually live in the house and be part of the family. For that, they need to find a family with an extra room as well as in a safe area, with certain physical aspects of the house (barred windows, solid doors) and most often these families tend to be more well-off members of the community and thus the volunteers tend to live in the better parts of the town. And I don’t think any member of the community really judges that the gringo lives in the nicer part…why would they? The other members of the community would probably like to live their too if they had the choice.
And with the increase of communication, comes the increase in responsibility. There’s more structure and a certain pressure from each program to achieve a number of ‘changed outcomes’ each couple of months. We have weekly interaction with someone from the administration, whether it’s the doctor, regional coordinator or the program director. Most Peace Corps business is conducted through e-mail unless it’s been established that the volunteer DOESN’T have a reliable connection every one-two weeks. Many of the e-mails require follow-up in some form or another, which is time consuming and slightly stressful for the volunteer especially when you have over 100 messages between Peace Corps, friends, families, and offers to increase your member size with just one tiny pill.
As well, volunteers aren’t free to roam about their country and are required to be in their site. Sounds a bit obvious, but a week of disappearing to the beach or for a multi-day hike without previous authorization just doesn’t exist. Volunteers are granted a certain number of vacation days, and have to request in advance to use them. Furthermore, volunteers are required to report to HQ when they spend time out of their site, or pretty much when we don’t sleep in our own beds. Illegal vacations, or taking time out of site without proper reporting, are grounds for disciplinary actions and even early termination. Given all this, we often question whether or not volunteer is our true job title, given all the formalities and requirements imposed.
I’m not complaining about the requirements, as they all have their base and reason. However, Peace Corps isn’t the two year free-ride foreign vacation courtesy of the US government some make it out to be. With all the requirements, goals, and objectives it is an actual job, and the title of volunteer can be misleading. But as the pamphlets and web banners say, Peace Corps is the toughest job you’ll ever love.
Science Fair!
So usually I write and over analysis this or that about Peru, but I got to do something really cool this past week: judge at a colegio (secondary school) science fair. Now, you might think ‘What’s so cool about shitty teenage science projects?’ and this might be true to some extent except that many of the kids had been working on their project for at least a month, which is a pretty big time commitment. As well, leading up to the big event, some of the groups came up to me and asked for advice about a number of things: namely recycling, trash management, and solar power. And having helped my homestay sister for a (failed) biodigestor –that she researched and decided to do, and then asked me if I knew anything about it – I was excited to see what all was going to be presented.
Of course, nothing starts on time. I show up at 9 and everyone’s still blowing up balloons, and the other judge hasn’t showed up. About 10 or so, things got underway with the national anthem, some opening remarks, and the introduction of the judges; a science professor from Casa Grande (the closest big town to Sausal) and then yours truly. After a few cheers and jeers, we were off to see each class’s chosen project.
The professor and I spent the next two hours making our way around the colegio checking out all the work the kids but into their projects (I took some pictures, but since I’ve become useless at using the internets due to the cerca 1995 AOL connection we have in my town, expect pictures in December 2011). Obviously, some were more elaborated than others. Major themes included organic products, using local plants for nutrition, reusing/recycling, and solar energy;
+’Natural’ perfumes and soaps
+ Organic pesticides (using peppers and spices)
+ Solar oven
+ An oil candle made out of all recycled materials
+ Solar water heater
+ Recycled materials: dresses and jewelry
+ How to prevent the bubonic pest
Beyond just doing the project, the students had to create a poster presentation including a research question, hypothesis, step by step guide, purpose for research, etc. While each group needed to develop certain aspects of their presentation and information a little more, I was impressed with the quality and design with many of the projects, design and intentions. Especially so since some of these technologies (solar oven, solar water heater, recycled materials projects) are being pushed by organizations focusing on sustainable development.
It seems somewhat ridiculous or no more than a novelty to see these projects in powerpoint presentation and project idea manuals, but to see the students applying many of these ideas independently (while I served as a consultant, I never gave instructions on what to do) was inspiring. The solar water heater, for example, is something we’re experimenting with in the sierras and in Ica, as well as applying the technology to heat houses.
Lastly, as many volunteers have seen, the education system is weak in Peru. Students mainly learn by ‘teach and preach’ models, copy and memorization with very little practical application or creative thinking. To elaborate a project over 1-2 months is not something expected of the students as well. And while some projects fell through, ideas and projects weren’t fully developed, this science fair was a good step to motivate the students to keep pushing forward. And talking with the science professor who organized all of this, it looks like for a first time around the students did well, and he plans on repeating the science fair next year. Can’t wait!
Of course, nothing starts on time. I show up at 9 and everyone’s still blowing up balloons, and the other judge hasn’t showed up. About 10 or so, things got underway with the national anthem, some opening remarks, and the introduction of the judges; a science professor from Casa Grande (the closest big town to Sausal) and then yours truly. After a few cheers and jeers, we were off to see each class’s chosen project.
The professor and I spent the next two hours making our way around the colegio checking out all the work the kids but into their projects (I took some pictures, but since I’ve become useless at using the internets due to the cerca 1995 AOL connection we have in my town, expect pictures in December 2011). Obviously, some were more elaborated than others. Major themes included organic products, using local plants for nutrition, reusing/recycling, and solar energy;
+’Natural’ perfumes and soaps
+ Organic pesticides (using peppers and spices)
+ Solar oven
+ An oil candle made out of all recycled materials
+ Solar water heater
+ Recycled materials: dresses and jewelry
+ How to prevent the bubonic pest
Beyond just doing the project, the students had to create a poster presentation including a research question, hypothesis, step by step guide, purpose for research, etc. While each group needed to develop certain aspects of their presentation and information a little more, I was impressed with the quality and design with many of the projects, design and intentions. Especially so since some of these technologies (solar oven, solar water heater, recycled materials projects) are being pushed by organizations focusing on sustainable development.
It seems somewhat ridiculous or no more than a novelty to see these projects in powerpoint presentation and project idea manuals, but to see the students applying many of these ideas independently (while I served as a consultant, I never gave instructions on what to do) was inspiring. The solar water heater, for example, is something we’re experimenting with in the sierras and in Ica, as well as applying the technology to heat houses.
Lastly, as many volunteers have seen, the education system is weak in Peru. Students mainly learn by ‘teach and preach’ models, copy and memorization with very little practical application or creative thinking. To elaborate a project over 1-2 months is not something expected of the students as well. And while some projects fell through, ideas and projects weren’t fully developed, this science fair was a good step to motivate the students to keep pushing forward. And talking with the science professor who organized all of this, it looks like for a first time around the students did well, and he plans on repeating the science fair next year. Can’t wait!
Preparing for the possibility
When you leave for Peace Corps, you prepare yourself to be away as best you can, knowing that you’re most likely going to miss important holidays, birthdays, weddings and all kinds of other celebrations. It’s part of the sacrafice. Volunteers go home for some of these events, but they can’t go home for all of them. And while it’s not fun to miss these events, you get by. I spent Thanksgiving with other volunteers and Peruvians, and shared the holiday with them. I spent Christmas with my homestay family and felt really at home. Not once did I feel horribly homesick that I was missing these events.
But something happened that I was only somewhat expecting, but never really thinking about. My grandmother died this past month. While not going into details, it was expected and unexpected. I’ve gotten calls from home during Christmas, Easter, etc and always felt happy about it, but this was the opposite. Instead of missing an event where everyone was happy, I was missing a traumatic moment with my family…one where everyone converges for a few days and puts everything else on hold. And I was in Perú with no way out.
Before I left, we talked about the possibility of my grandmother dying and what we would do if it happened. Peace Corps only pays for the volunteer to go back to the states for immediate family emergencies (parents, siblings), and seeing as how getting a flight that soon would be very expensive and by the time I got from my site to home, she would be buried, it just wouldn’t be possible to go home.
I prepared myself for being away for holidays, but maybe this is something you just can’t prepare yourself for. To be honest, I did feel alone and depressed for a few days and took some time out of site in the regional capital. My homestay family was compassionate and caring, but it just wasn’t the same. I talked with other volunteers, and they helped out, and I took a few personal days.
I don’t mean to write this to be depressing, or discourage the 16er’s that will be arriving in Peru in less than a month. This is just one part of your experience in Peace Corps, not really glamorous. And my advice would be that before you leave, talk with your family about a plan of action if someone dies. Although it’s hard to even talk about it - let alone go into the specifics since most likely you won’t know where you’ll be stationed, and access to communication- it’s better to have the plan and know a little bit before you go, rather than having it all hit you at once.
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